If you’ve been following along on Facebook then you caught a glimpse of my bedside table progress. At this point the bedside table is finished and just waiting for hardware to be installed. The hubs bedside table was really simple and came together in like three days. The process for mine on the other hand is a bit more complicated. I’m not a simple woman, and if I’m going to the trouble of building a piece of furniture then it better be badass right?
This will likely be a two-part post because I took a lot of photos and I want to show you as many steps as possible.
For the design plans, I once again turned to The Design Confidential.
I had to make some modifications to get exactly what I wanted. I will not list my cut list because it can be found here at TDC.
Although this “chest” will serve as a bedside table with storage, for the sake of this post and my SEO I’m going to refer to it as a chest.
The original width of this chest was 36″ but I wanted mine to be 40″ wide. I also wanted it to be 34″ tall with larger drawers than the hubs bedside table. I had to modify the size of every single piece of wood to make this chest. It took me a while to hammer down all the details and recreate my cutlist.
Using 3/4″ Birch Plywood, I built a box that measured 28″h x 40″w x 18″ d. As always I hid my pocket holes on the inside of the carcass and screwed and glued it all together.
Since plywood edges are not pretty I rubbed a coat of spackle across all of the exposed edges. This will later get sanded smooth and will take primer and paint really well.
Once everything was sanded smooth and dust free, I primed the box with oil based primer. I normally use water based but I recently used the spray version of this Cover Stain and loved the results. It dries really fast and sands well too.
I primed the inside first, using a combination of roller and brush.
While I waited for the primer to dry, I moved on to building the leg assembly. After I cut all my pieces and dry fitted them together, I drilled pocket holes and hand rounded all the edges with 180 grit sandpaper.
I used glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails to secure the leg assembly. Brad nails are not very strong but since I will be securing with screws, I know this thing will not come apart.
Note: to keep everything flush, I assembled the leg assembly upside down on top of 3/4″ MDF because it’s flat and solid.
Once the base was primed, I secured the base to the box. I used glue and 1-1/4″ pocket screws. All these screws are probably overkill but I want to be sure that nothing comes loose.
To attach the cross support to the box, I countersunk three 1-1/2″ SPAX screws.
The box now looks more like the beginnings of a chest.
Before I can paint, I caulked the seams so that my paint job will be flawless.
This would be a perfect project for a sprayer if I still had one. I bought one on Cyber Monday to spray my bedroom doors but was unimpressed with the results. I returned it and decided to try again once a better quality sprayer was within my budget.
I decided to use some leftover paint and keep things simple with a 1/2 tint of Sherwin Williams Dovetail 7018 which is essentially SW 7015.
This is the same paint color used in my dining room, my striped entry and my family room.
I made my drawer boxes out of 1/2″ plywood instead of 3/4″ plywood to lighten the load. I also cross cut the plywood drawer pieces to avoid having to buy a 2nd sheet of 1/2″ plywood. Its’ not a big deal since the pieces will not be seen. It’s always preferred to rip plywood in the direction of the grain. It looks better and you are less likely to chip the veneer.
Building square drawers is tough, especially when you only have one pair of hands and your clamps aren’t long enough. To make assembly easier, I clamped the drawer bottom to my flat solid MDF surface and glued up the edges of the plywood. I used 1″ brads to secure the drawer sides to the bottom. This way the boards wont move when I add the screws.
I flipped the bottom over and secured with 1″ pocket screws. A Kreg Right Angle Clamp would make this much easier but until I invest in a few, this will be my method.
Next I screwed the drawer fronts and backs to the bottom and sides.
When I built the hubs bedside table it really irked me that you could still see the pocket holes when the drawers were open. I also ran into the issue of the screws for the drawer slides running into my pocket holes . By modifying the build of the drawers I eliminated that issue and it gives a cleaner looking drawer. I built two 9″ deep drawers and a 7″ drawer.
Once my drawers were complete, It was time to install the drawer slides.
To figure out how far in to place the cabinet member of the slide, I built a jig. The sum of the 1/2″ plywood and the 5/8″ drawer material gives me the exact depth for flush drawers. The flush edge helps me balance the jig on the sides of the chest while I place my drawer slides.
UPDATE:…..I worked so fast that I forgot to take a photo of the jig in use. Since someone called me out on it ( Thx Jandee) I made another jig to demonstrate.
The two pieces of 3/4″ wood are pin nailed to each other. Imagine the lighter piece of wood being the thickness of the drawer front. The darker piece of wood is the flush edge. By pressing the flush edge against the front of the chest, the lighter piece of wood (drawer front) sits perfectly inset from the front of the chest. The cabinet member of the drawer slide (the part seen in the photo above) Is installed right behind the lighter piece of wood. I hope this makes things clearer.
It worked like a charm and I had all of my drawers installed and gliding smooth within a 1/2 hour.
Next up is building the drawer fronts which will hide all the pocket holes as well as the slide mounts.
I can’t wait to show you what I came up with.